Marilyn, May 20, 2015
Welcoming though it is, Uruguay, like most countries, expects its visitors to leave after a certain period of time. Within 90 days of arriving, we were required to renew our visas, which was accomplished with a simple visit to an immigration office. With those additional 90 days about to expire at the end of May, if we intended to comply with the law, we needed to exit and reenter the country. Apparently, overstaying one's visa, unlike in the United States, doesn't carry much risk beyond a modest fine, but wanting to be law-abiding visitors, we obediently made plans to fly to Peru.
Why Peru, when Argentina and Brazil are just across the border? One reason is that both Argentina and Brazil charge U.S. citizens hefty "reciprocity" fees, reciprocating for the high price their citizens must pay to apply for visas to visit the U.S. Another reason is that all of us have long dreamed of visiting Machu Picchu, the ancient Incan city high in the Peruvian Andes.
So, at 4:30 a.m. last Wednesday, we found ourselves walking down our silent road under a beautiful moon to the bus stop. Always wary of the unreliability of bus schedules, we were relieved when the second bus that came down the highway was indeed going to the airport. Dozing just a bit on the way, we arrived in plenty of time to check in and get to our gate. Our tickets were on a Colombian airline, Avianca, which I had heard great things about. We were not disappointed! The extra courtesies shown to the children were especially appreciated. I also loved that this was my first flight captained by a woman.
When I mentioned to an Uruguayan friend several weeks ago that we were planning a trip to Peru, he told me, "Peru is South American, not like Uruguay." At first, I thought that was a strange comment, but immediately after stepping off the plane in Lima, I understood exactly what he meant. Even in a bustling airport full of travellers from everywhere, I could tell that we were in a place entirely different from Uruguay: much more brown skin, a more familiar Spanish dialect, and not one person drinking mate. It was disappointing, but not too unexpected, to find McDonalds, Papa John's, and Subway in the airport's food court. They served InkaCola, though, so I guess that redeemed them a bit.
After the boys ate their Subway sandwiches and I drank the InkaCola that they rejected, we boarded our plane to Cusco. Once over the snowy Andes, our next task was to find transportation to Ollantaytambo, where we had hotel reservations for the night. The advice we had gotten from internet resources was that starting out in Ollantaytambo, 2000 feet lower than Cusco, was a good way to avoid altitude sickness. We had also read that we could find very inexpensive busses from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. Just after disembarking, we passed a desk in the airport advertising private transportation, and with two tired boys and a couple hours of travel still ahead of us, we abandoned our noble plans to travel as the locals do. The impulse decision to hire a private car and driver for $60 was one of the best decisions of our trip. It turns out that a 2-day "strike" was in progress, and the main road to Ollantaytambo was closed, so busses weren't running. I asked a lot of questions about the strike, trying to understand what was at issue. I finally figured out that it wasn't a strike as we would think of it as much as it was a protest. People upset about an increase in public transportation costs had blocked the highway and train tracks with boulders, logs, and their own bodies, and shut down virtually all regular movement for thousands of tourists and other travellers. Our driver took us on the only alternate route, a narrow dirt road that added about an hour to our trip and took maybe a year off our lives. He tore around mountain curves, ignoring the "beware of landslides" signs, and brought us to the edge of more than one precipice. Halfway through the drive, he told us he had never been this way before; nevertheless, he seemed confident in his ability to get us where we wanted to go without killing us. It wasn't until we were almost there that I realized that he was facing the return drive in the dark, and then understood better his hurry. We did pass one area where large logs were blocking the road, and local folks were hanging out watching the show as cars and trucks going in opposite directions aggressively and loudly vied for the narrow passage around the barriers. I suppose it would not have been a wise thing to get out and try to clear the obstacles out of the way.
Reaching Ollantaytambo, our driver was eager to deposit us on the street and start back toward Cusco. We weren't sure where our hotel was, but found refuge in a lovely restaurant overlooking a river. There, we happily tucked into the best food we've tasted in South America. I had traditional Peruvian lomo saltado, and Gene had an alpaca dish. It was enough to make me consider a permanent move to Peru.
With dinner gratefully eaten and eyelids drooping, there was not much left to do but find our hotel. We asked a few questions, shouldered our backpacks, walked down the road a bit, asked more questions, crossed a bridge, and finally arrived at the hotel, called Tikawasi Valley. The inn was warm and inviting, and the staff exceptionally helpful. The boys were especially thrilled by the towels folded into swans that greeted us in our room.
We did our best to get a good night's sleep, as we had to be up early the next morning for breakfast and a walk to the train station. If the altitude was not enough to take our breath away, the view we got from the hotel balcony when we walked out the door in the morning was. Besides the beauty of the mountains, we loved the little bull statues on the next-door roofs. Traditionally, these statues are given to new homeowners by friends and family to ensure good fortune to all who dwell under them. The cross is often added as a nod to Catholic tradition as well.
As we had been promised, we were met at the Machu Picchu Pueblo train station by staff from Inkaterra, the resort hotel where we were staying. From this point on, our trip had been arranged for us by my friend Beth's agency, Lost World Adventures. We have never traveled with help from an agency before, but after this trip, we may be spoiled for life. It was such a gift to not have to worry about the next day's transportation or directions or itinerary, knowing that someone with infinitely more experience than we had was planning it all for us.
Our bags in the care of the helpful Inkaterra porter, we were escorted the short distance through the small town and over a bridge to the resort. We were given warm washcloths to freshen up, served organic tea that had been grown right on the property, and invited to wander the extensive grounds or relax in the beautiful lobby area until our room was ready. An unexpected delight was meeting a California family including two friendly boys and their parents and grandmother, with whom we immediately hit it off. Teo and Javy, long tired of having only Gene and me as companions and audience, were thrilled to have new friends who not only invited them to join them in the hot tub and pool, but even loaned them swimwear. It seemed to me that we had found a paradise, even before we started off on the adventures we had come seeking. The next few days were ones that we'll never forget, and that we will report on in upcoming posts!






